King Louis XIV of France: How Fashion Created an Empire
Written by Story Pennock
King Louis the XIV, who reigned from 1643 to 1715, elevated French power and significance through fashion. Internationally, nationally, and in the court he redefined fashion and created the capital France has over the industry.
King Louis XIV of France, painted by Hyacinth Rigaud.
As an individual, Louis venerated decadence and as a King, he used it to gain control over the nobility. Fashion has always been a conduit for displaying status and wealth, the powerful flaunt through clothing. King Louis seized on this vanity and made fashion crucial to French court life. He would honor his favorites “by permitting them to wear what was forbidden to others” making them chicer than their competitors and noticeably valued by The King. Louis ordained fashion made people powerful which strengthened incentive for loyalty to the monarchy. One of his special fashion privileges was the inspired Juste-Au-Corps a Brevet which was, “a blue coat, [...] [and] only those who had such coats could go with him [to Versailles] without first asking permission.” Exclusive Versailles granted nobles privacy with and opportunities to push their agendas onto the king. Dress laws and the Juste Au Corps Brevet clearly demarcated those who were in from those who were out, strengthening the red velvet rope around Louis and his jurisdiction over fashion.
Nobles underwent financial disaster whilst attempting to stay trendy. King Louis set up a system of fashion consumerism and debt that bankrupted the nobility while keeping them dependent on him and loyal to the throne. Clothing was incredibly intricate and expensive to make creating an unending and expensive investment. Dresses had multiple, expensive, components such as aiguillettes, thin strips of iron placed inside ribbons to prevent fraying, and yards of lace that had to be bought in large, costly quantities. Additionally, there was an ebb and flow of different trendy accessories, one day hats were high and the next they sunk low. King Louis actively encouraged his courtiers to live beyond their means to purchase extravagant clothing and eventually rely on him to finance their lives. The system of bankruptcy went unnoticed because luxury dress “impressed the outside world,” thereby catering to the nobility's vanity. Requiring the court to stay fashionable covertly kept the courtiers loyal, but underfoot.
The prestige of French fashion spread internationally due to “the French vigorously [promoting] their fashions all over Europe.” An example of that promotion was The Mercure Galant, a vogue equivalent that solely promoted French designs. King Louis favored and exported the publication. Emissaries visiting the French court also took French clothes back to their origin country- thus, spreading the indulgent fashions of France globally.
King Louis not only created fashion but was stringent in regards to promoting clothing that was literally home-spun. Departing from the historically favored silks of Italy, King Louis required his family’s wardrobe and the inspired Juste Au Coprs to be made from French silk. A courtier recounts King Louis ordering his son to burn his coat because it was not made of French cloth. King Louis’ devotion to national fabric encouraged the people of France to purchase local textiles thereby creating a demand and circulating money.
During his reign, King Louis enlisted Jean-Baptiste Colbert, his finance minister to further assist with bolstering French fashion. Jean Colbert noticed that “the financial situation in France was such that the cost of importing [...] materials was prohibitive.” As a result, King Louis banned imports into France of anything that the country could produce on its own. Jean Colbert later noted that “French-made serge and stockings alone cost the dutch four million Livres yearly lost in trade.” Producing its own goods, france bolstered its economy and reduced Dutch income. By promoting and even at times requiring French manufactured materials for the fashionable, citizens gained jobs, profited and the French economy benefited. The industry gained traction in short time, at the end of King Louis’ rule, France was the global leader in luxury fashion. King Louis’ actions nurtured the fashion industry and invited prosperity.
Baroque fashion was King Louis' creation and a reflection of his love for “splendor [and] magnificence.” As people partook in ostentatious displays of dress for their own vanity, they were simultaneously adopting and thus mimicking King Louis’ personality and love of opulence. Baroque style highly contrasted the rigid, somber, styles of the early 1600s that were mostly promoted by the Spanish court. So, the contrasting decadence that spread from France left King Louis a formidable and unique legacy. Furthermore, those that wield culture wield power so the global enjoyment of baroque fashion indicated the new age of French power.
Today, the French fashion industry still holds social and economic relevance. The Haute-Couture industry in Paris creates incredible revenue for France and is a defining aspect of French culture. The industry has its roots in King Louis’ edict banning textile imports and demanding that courtiers dress only in French silk. The Baroque fashion period of King Louis, that placed an emphasis on glamor, continues to inspire countless designers such as Alexander McQueen or Gianni Versace and speaks to the industry’s unwavering charm.
Fashion was titular to King Louis' reign and through fashion he crafted his success. It was a tool to gain loyalty from the nobility, it strengthened the French coin, and led to global acclaim of French culture. Today the progeny of King Louis’ fashion industry continues to be carried out in the Haute Couture of Paris which continues to foster France’s economy, and international influence. King Louis' reign through fashion transformed France into a competitive superpower thus altering France’s culture and trajectory.
Story Pennock is a college student and co-founder of the Rosebud News. As her name would suggest, she loves telling stories and giving her unsolicited opinion about literature, history, and current events. Her pastimes include going to museums, reading, researching historical fashion, playing guitar, listening to Brit-pop and maintaining her Duo Lingo Italian/Turkish/Portuguese streak (just dont ask her to say anything other than nouns).
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